Synagogues are full and kosher restaurants abound as liberal immigrants, Orthodox singles, and secular Jews come together
By Suzanne Selengut on Mosaic Magazine
On
a typical Friday evening on Tel Aviv’s Ben Yehuda Street, this city
known for its vibrant nightlife is in weekend mode. Beachgoers walk home
as the sun goes down, sandy and tanned, clutching towels and
flip-flops. Elegant couples head out for drinks and dinner. Singles
gather at pubs and start to make their late-night plans for the biggest
club night of the week.
But nearby, at the same time, a very
different scene kicks into gear—one that most people don’t associate
with Tel Aviv. Synagogues in the center of the city fill up with young
professionals. On Frishman Street, just minutes from the beach, a red
carpet fit for a Hollywood awards show marks the entrance to The Tel
Aviv International Synagogue. Inside the sanctuary, about a hundred
well-heeled men and women sing and clap in a scene reminiscent of
synagogues on New York City’s Upper West Side. After services, the young
rabbi welcomes everyone in a mix of Hebrew and English and invites them
for refreshments in the courtyard, where single men and women flirt
over glasses of kosher Cava and assorted pastries. Afterward, some head
to friends’ homes for a traditional Friday night meal, while others hit
their favorite restaurants or bars.
Welcome to the new Tel Aviv,
where religious devotion mixes easily with the city’s predominantly
secular ethos. Although Israel has become well-known for its
religious-secular divide, with few active streams of liberal Judaism,
Tel Aviv—long the defiantly secular counterpart to religious
Jerusalem—is a study in how this culture may be changing. Attendance at
synagogues and religious events in Tel Aviv has been growing for the
past few years, and kosher restaurants are on the rise.
Part of
this reflects an influx of immigrants, mostly Orthodox and
Conservative/traditional, who have instilled a distinctly
Diaspora-style, synagogue-based model of community to the scene. Part is
also due to more Shabbat-observant Israeli singles moving to Tel Aviv
from other cities, in search of a more liberal lifestyle. But part, too,
is due to some increased interest in religious activities among
Israel’s secular Jews.
Today, the city boasts dozens of active
synagogues, social, civic, and religious organizations. Those who get
involved in the city’s religious life are primarily single young
professionals—a mix of immigrants and native Israelis, traditional Jews
of all streams, and some who define themselves as secular.
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