You might say that Maryam Maddahi and her relatives hold a dry run for the
Passover Seder every Friday night, when they have a rotating Sabbath dinner for
four dozen to five dozen family members.
It’s a common practice for the family, as it is for
their fellow Iranian Jews in Southern California, who began settling there after
the fall of the Shah in 1979. The population has grown to about 40,000.
Iran has one of the oldest
known Jewish communities, going back over 2,500 years to when Jews fled the land
of Israel after the destruction of the First Temple. “We take pride in the
country of Persia,” said Mrs. Maddahi, who will host the first Seder on Monday
night. “It was an old monarchy, with thousands of years of history.”
On a recent night here at
Ms. Maddahi’s home, some 60 family members were listening and dancing to Persian
music performed by a violinist to celebrate the birthdays of Mrs. Maddahi and
another relative, Younes Nazarian. The guests, talking mostly in Farsi, nibbled
on pistachios, plump dates, nuts and raisins, signs of welcome in Iran.
“Food and feasts were a
part of life for us,” said Angella Nazarian, one of Mrs. Maddahi’s daughters,
who has just published a memoir of the Iranian Jews’ arrival in the United
States, titled “Life as a Visitor” (Assouline Publishing). “Jewish people never
do anything without food. There needs to be plenty and varied dishes fit for a
party of 100 people in order to really call it a dinner party — even if only 20
people are invited.”
The dining table held platters of appetizers including
a display of raw scallions, fresh mint, tarragon and dill and Mrs. Maddahi’s
extraordinary grape leaves stuffed with rice and barberries and topped with
Iranian golden prunes and apricots, a recipe she learned long ago from her
mother in Tehran.
Even
at Passover, Iranian dinners always include an abundance of rice, brought to
Persia from the East about the time that Jews first arrived there. (Ashkenazi
Jews do not eat rice at Passover.)
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